Kyoto History and Engineering Blend Seamlessly In a Surprising Marriage of Eastern and Western Architecture.
In Northern Higashiyama, the historical district of Kyoto, stands Nanzen-ji Temple, a temple so important that in 1385, when Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu ranked the famous five mountain Zen temples, he raised Nanzen-ji above all the rest to maintain its importance. The temple site, gardens, and unique aqueduct have drawn vacationers and nature lovers for centuries.
Nanzen-ji Temple
In 1264, Emperor Kameyama built his future retirement home on a 163-acre parcel while he was still in power. He named it the Zenrin-ji-dono palace. Later, political opponents stripped him of his title and ousted him from his seat, replacing him with his son in power. The former emperor moved into his awaiting palace.
Unwelcomed Palace Ghosts
The story goes that the palace was haunted, and ghosts appeared every evening. The former emperor claimed the doors opened on their own, and family members felt the touch of ghosts on their skin. Buddhist priests were brought in to exorcise the spirits. They chanted and burned incense but failed to evict the uninvited guests.
Several years later, around 1290, frustrated and looking for a reprieve from the ghosts, Kameyama asked a Zen Buddhist priest named Mukan-Fumon to oust the spirits. At the time, the Zen Buddhist sect was relatively unknown in Japan and had only started around 100 years prior.
The priest and his apprentice sat meditating quietly in the palace for several days. Following the visit, the spirits disappeared and never bothered Emperor Kameyama again. The emperor was so happy he became Mukan-Fumon’s student and donated his villa to become a Zen Buddhist Temple. This gift and the favor of the former emperor gave rise to Zen Buddhism in Japan. The palace became the sect headquarters. Mukan-Fumon was appointed the founding temple priest but died soon after. His student, Nan-In-Kokushi, took over as the head priest and oversaw the construction of the temple complex. In 1308, three years after the emperor’s death, the temple was re-named the Nanzen-ji Temple, in honor of the head priest Nan-In-Kokushi.
Rebuilding in the Edo Period (1603-1867)
The complex buildings have burned down several times throughout history. Japan went through a long civil war through the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries when the complex was demolished. The Edo Period saw the rebuilding of the temple and grounds. This was when the gardens were added, and the entire palace complex had its peak. It became the head temple of the Zen Buddhists. Dozens of smaller buildings and temples were added. Hundreds of people flocked to this space to enjoy the natural beauty.
Meiji Period
During the Meiji period, the government seized land and confiscated over two-thirds of the property. The palace grounds shrunk from 163 acres to 49 acres today. Twenty-five temples and buildings were reduced to twelve. The Sanmon Gate is one of the original structures that is still there today; it’s protected as a National Cultural Property.
Suiro-kaku Aqueduct
Aside from the temple’s vibrant history, the area is unique from the other 1,600 Buddhist temples in Kyoto because of the addition of the beautiful Suirokaku Aqueduct, one of the city’s most photographed sites.
The canal flows from Lake Biwa to Tetsugaki no Michi along what’s known as the Philosophers Path. It measures 305 feet long and over 13 feet wide.
The dramatic red and white weathered brick arches were built from 1885 to 1890. The above-ground design was meant to keep the landscape’s integrity while passing by the existing shrines and temples undisturbed. Though the Western-style design was controversial at the time, it has been a popular tourist attraction for visitors, photographers and wedding photos under the pleasingly congruent arched piers.
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The Modernization of Kyoto
The aqueduct revolutionized Kyoto and the rest of Japan in several ways. It was used for shipping, allowing passage by boat between Osaka Bay and Lake Biwa. The water brought through irrigated the city’s crops and kitchens.
Suiro-kaku was Japan’s first hydroelectric power station, contributing to the modernization of Kyoto and beyond. The electricity created here powered Kyoto streetlights, industries and Kyoto Shiden, Japan’s first electric railway.
Water wheels also provided hydroelectric power for the large-scale cotton yarn spinning industry that emerged during the Meiji era. During the 1890s, this industry ramped up when raw cotton was heavily imported and exported as yarn or cotton cloth. In the 1930s, cotton cloth became Japan’s most important foreign trade export.
Still in Use
The aqueduct is still fully functional and proudly carries 97% of Kyoto’s water. It passes from Lake Biwa through the Nanzenji Temple grounds to the Keage Station. It has been named one of Kyoto’s Civil Engineering Heritage Sites.
A walkway at the top of the aqueduct is a popular spot in the springtime, where it overflows with vibrant pink and white cherry blossoms.
Sanmon Gate
At the front of the temple grounds lies the Sanmon Gate, named after the number three (san) in Japanese. The gate was built in 1628; at 72 feet tall, it’s one of the three largest in Japan. It contains three large doorways that create beautiful frames for photos of the trees behind. The three gates in Buddhism are symbols of the Gate of Emptiness, the Gate of Formlessness, and the Gate of Desirelessness. They represent gateways toward enlightenment and are considered an entry from the profane and sacred for new Buddhist monks committing to enlightenment.
Visitors can climb stairs to the second-floor balcony for a fee of 500 yen. From there, they can see 360-degree views of the grounds, mountains, and Kyoto city in the distance.
Hōjō
Also known as the abbot’s quarters, the abbot is the head of the monks. This area contains a large Zen rock garden, artwork, and a statue of Bodhisattva Kannon, a Buddhist deity of compassion and wisdom. The garden here is believed to have been created by a famous garden designer, architect, and tea master, Kobori Enshū.
Gardens
Nanzen-in
This small temple is surrounded by a colorful space dating back to the 14th century displaying the Kamakura period style. It contains a pond shaped like a dragon that is believed to have been designed by Emperor Kameyama, the original owner of the Nanzen-ji Temple.
Taki-no-ma (Waterfall Room)
This lovely tearoom is lined with tatami mats and panoramic windows looking out onto a waterfall splashing down the hillside from Lake Biwa. It illustrates a technique known as hisen-sawari or waterfall hiding. In Japan, leaving an unobstructed waterfall for viewing is considered unappealing. Instead, leaves or greenery should cover the waterfall just a bit. Maple trees were strategically planted to frame the view of the waterfall. Enjoy the peaceful serenity while sipping matcha at a low table.
Kohojo Garden
The Kohojo Garden is a dry landscape rock garden with perfectly circled gravel with Zen waves raked through. Large stones in the center have been placed in the form of the written Chinese character for heart, each is circled with calming raked gravel.
Rokudo-tei Garden
This soft, moss-covered area is Rokudo-tei, meaning the garden of six realms. This seemingly peaceful space is meant to remind visitors of their failure to reach enlightenment by showing them the six realms that we are continually being reborn into: the human, the asura (mythical beings always in conflict between good and evil), the animal, the hungry ghost, and the hell realm. It reminds us that we wander aimlessly through the realms without transcending them through enlightenment.
Yudofu
After a few happy hours of exploring the temple, poke around outside the gate for one of many restaurants serving yudofu, (hot water tofu). A mild, delicate hot pot of water and freshly made custardy tofu served with only a slice of kelp and various seasonings. Yudofu was created in this area for the vegetarian Zen Buddhist monks who lived and worked at the temple around the 1600s. Okutan, Junsei, and Yachiyo are restaurants just outside the gate and considered some of Kyoto’s best tofu restaurants.
Notes and Helpful Tips:
- Japanese websites can easily be translated by using the Google Chrome browser.
- The Temple is the most beautiful in autumn, when the maples are in their full splendor.
Nanzern-Ji Temple
Nanzern-Ji Temple Website
Hours: 8:40-4:40 December – February
8:40-5:00 March – November
Address:
〒606-8435 京都府京都市 左京区南禅寺福地町86
Google Maps of Nanzenji
How to get here:
Train: Take the Tozai Line to Keage Station (20 minutes) and walk 10 minutes to Nanzen-ji Temple.
- Take the walkway above the station that runs along an old railway line. It’s a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing in the springtime and you can avoid walking next to the road.
Bus: Take the Kyoto City Bus 5 from Kyoto Station (35 minutes) to Nanzenji-Eikando-michi bus stop and walk 10 minutes to Nanzen-ji Temple
Admission
The grounds and gardens are free to enter
Tickets for the Sanmon Gate and the Hōjō
General Admission: ¥500
High School Students: ¥400
Primary School: ¥300
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