Hidden away in the mountains neighboring Tokyo, Hakone is a quintessential getaway spot for anyone seeking a slice of Japan’s natural beauty and relaxing hot springs (onsen).
Just an hour and a half from Tokyo by train, Hakone offers a perfect blend of relaxing experiences and exciting adventures for both locals and foreigners alike. Whether you’re soaking in a 100-year-old onsen with healing waters or touring the Hakone Open-Air Museum, there’s something for everyone.
This comprehensive guide takes a deep dive into sightseeing, restaurant recommendations, and transportation– all you need to know to make an unforgettable trip to Hakone.
General Information: The Hot Spring Resorts of Hakone
Starting with the most famous attraction— Hakone’s hot springs.
With over 20 distinct spring sources, the area offers a variety of mineral-rich baths said to soothe everything from tired muscles to back pain.
There are 2 ways to enjoy onsen: stay overnight at a hotel or ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) with hot springs, or pay for a one-day ticket for higaeri onsen, where you can rent a towel and use the bathing facilities for a few hours like at a day spa.
Tattoos
*CAVEAT: Be aware that many hot springs won’t allow tattooed visitors, and you will not be able to wear a swimsuit as bathing nude is the norm. However, tattooed guests can still enjoy the baths of Hakone if you opt for a private hot spring (kashikiri onsen) instead of the public baths. Only certain hotels and facilities have kashikiri, which often cost extra at hotels—but they are quite common and easily affordable.
Area & Hot Spring Guide
If you opt to stay overnight, you can either stay around Yumoto, the the town closest to the train station, or Gora, which is a ways up the mountain. Yumoto has many souvenir shops, restaurants and is generally geared for tourists, while Gora is quieter and has more nature and famous tourist spots. Some of the other sightseeing spots mentioned in this article, such as the Hakone Open-Air Museum and the Hakone Ropeway, are closer to Gora.
You can search for numerous lodging options at trip.com.
Now then, here are some choice onsens for soaking your cares away, including public and private bath options:
1. Yunessun: A Fun, Family-Friendly Hot Spring Theme Park
Yunessun is perfect for families looking for a fun and quirky waterpark-like experience. This themed hot spring resort offers traditional baths as well as unique options like a coffee bath, a wine bath, and even a green tea bath.
They also have a pool where you can wear your swimsuit and splash around, so kids and adults alike can enjoy the water slides and the playful atmosphere. Since Yunessun allows bathing suits in many of its areas, it is an ideal choice for those who prefer a less traditional onsen experience.
*Tattoos are not allowed in the nude baths, but they have long-sleeved rash guards for rent in the swimsuit/pool areas.
2. Hakone Yuryo Onsen: Rustic Outdoor Baths in Nature
One of the closest onsen to Yumoto station, Hakone Yuryo Onsen is a day spa hot spring that is extremely accessible, affordable, and has a variety of public and private baths (at a slight upcharge).
In summer and spring, the dense forests around it give privacy and a lovely view for the outdoor baths. They also have a sauna and offer massage services.
3. Gora Kadan: Luxurious Elegance in a Ryokan Setting
For those seeking an upscale and thoroughly Japanese experience, Gora Kadan is a perfect choice. This renowned ryokan combines traditional Japanese hospitality with modern amenities.
Guests can enjoy private stone hot spring baths with stunning views of Hakone’s lush greenery in summer or snowscape in winter. Non-staying visitors can book day-use onsen experiences, though reservations are a must.
4. Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu: Float in the Clouds
A modern take on hot spring bathing, Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu is famous for its infinity onsen pools that appear to melt into the surrounding mountains and skies. This is an Instagram-worthy spot where you can soak in style. The resort also offers day passes for visitors who aren’t staying overnight.
Museums, Volcanoes, and Other Must-Visit Attractions
While the hot springs are the star of the show, it’s far from the only one– Hakone is packed with attractions to keep you entertained:
1. Ashinoko Lake & Hakone Shrine
A visit to Hakone isn’t complete without taking in the views of Ashinoko, a serene lake just a 30-minute drive from Yumoto. Board a giant swan boat or a pirate ship-themed cruise for a leisurely mini cruise, or stop by for pizza and gelato at one of the restaurants overlooking the lake.
You’ll find the iconic Hakone Shrine along the shores, with its red torii gate seemingly floating on the water—a popular photo spot for couples.
You can climb the stairs behind the gate to go up the mountain and pray at the main body of the shrine. This shrine is an extremely popular spot for hatsumode, or the first shrine visit on New Year’s.
You can learn how to best experience a shrine by reading Shrines & Temples: Etiquette and How to Pray in Japan.
2. Owakudani Volcano/Hakone Ropeway
Fee: 2500 yen roundtrip
For a bird’s-eye view of the landscape, hop on the Hakone Ropeway to the top of a volcano. The ride offers panoramic views of Owakudani, a steaming valley created by volcanic activity, and on clear days, you can even see Mount Fuji in all its glory. Owakudani is also famous for its black eggs boiled in sulfurous hot springs, which are said to add 10 years to your life! (They taste just like normal hard-boiled eggs.)
3. Hakone Venetian Glass Museum
Fee: 1800 yen
Step into a fairytale-like world at the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum, a charming space showcasing fantastical glass art and sculptures.
The museum also features a delightful garden with a cafe, and offers plenty of gorgeous photo spots both indoors and out. In the autumn and winter, with the greenery draped in sparkling crystals and the Christmas roses in full bloom, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into the world of Alice in Wonderland. Absolutely worth a visit!
There’s usually a famous exhibition on rotation at this museum, and you can also book a glass crafting workshop–but this class definitely needs to be booked a few days ahead of time.
4. Hakone Open-Air Museum
Fee: 2000 yen
Art enthusiasts, rejoice! The Hakone Open-Air Museum is a delightful blend of natural beauty and artistic expression in the form of outdoor sculptures. The sprawling grounds feature pieces by world-famous artists, interactive exhibits, and even a foot bath where you can relax mid-visit.
With both indoor and outdoor exhibits, special events, and guest artists throughout the year, you’ll always find something new here.
5. Other Museums
There are many museums around the Hakone area, including the Hakone Museum of Art, and the Lalique Museum, which are also worth visiting.
I especially loved the Hakone Museum of Art, which has a breathtaking Japanese garden. Be sure to check what special exhibits they have during your visit—when I went, they had a lovely limited-time Alphonse Mucha exhibition inside.
Restaurant Recommendations in Hakone
1. La Terrazza
Right on the shores of Ashinoko Lake, this little Italian restaurant has a terrace overlooking the lake and is perfect for lunch on a sunny day. Their quattro fromaggi pizza drizzled with honey was scrumptious, and the dessert was to die for as well. Be aware that they’re often at max capacity, especially on weekends, and you may need to wait or book ahead.
2. Gora Brewery & Grill
Gora Brewery & Grill is amazing for dinner. In classic teppanyaki style, the food is grilled in front of you on a hot steel plate. Their specialty is their Hakone craft beer, all of which utilize 100% Hakone natural spring water and have won several awards.
The interior of the restaurant is fancy but cozy, with driftwood decor and a huge glass window overlooking a Japanese garden. Perfect for special events like anniversaries or birthdays– and the food is tender and flavorful. You can’t go wrong with this.
4 Tips for a Smooth Trip to Hakone
1. Get the Hakone Free Pass
This all-inclusive pass covers transportation in and around Hakone, including trains, buses, the ropeway, and even some boat rides.
For 6100 yen, you can travel on the Odakyu train line between Shinjuku and Hakone roundtrip and on some local trains within Hakone. The pass is valid for 2 days and offers discounts at participating attractions such as the onsen at Yunessun and at the Open Air Museum.
2. Time Your Visit for the Seasons
Hakone is stunning year-round, but spring brings pale pink cherry blossoms, and autumn offers blazing crimson fall foliage. Winter is perfect for crystal clear views of Mount Fuji, while summer is lush and green and great for hiking.
My personal favorite is autumn—which is the perfect time for both relaxing in hot springs and riding the trolley through a mountain of fiery autumn leaves.
3. Know Onsen Etiquette
Before dipping into the baths, make sure to shower thoroughly. Swimwear is typically not allowed unless explicitly stated (as in Yunessun), and tattoos may be restricted at some traditional onsens. Check each facilities’ homepage before you book tickets.
4. Book Hotels and Tickets Ahead
Considering proximity to Tokyo and its dense population, many hot spring resorts and popular restaurants fill up quickly, especially on weekends and holidays. Planning ahead ensures a smoother experience.
Conclusion
To take a breather from city life and get a taste of how the Japanese relax, definitely try Hakone on for size. Here, you can relax in healing onsen waters, lose yourself in glittering bejeweled gardens, and take in the scenery in a cable car up to an active volcano.
There’s no shortage of relaxation, delicious food, and art and culture. Whether you’re here for a day trip or an extended stay, Hakone’s charms will leave you refreshed and inspired. Grab your best camera and walking shoes and get ready for an adventure!
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